Knot Tying- Part 8

Transport Knot

TRANSPORT KNOT (OVERHAND SLIP KNOT/MULE KNOT)

The transport knot is used to secure the transport tightening system. It is simply an overhand slip knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Pass the running end of the rope around the anchor point passing it back under the standing portion (leading to the far side anchor) forming a loop.
STEP 2. Form a bight with the running end of the rope. Pass over the standing portion and down through the loop and dress it down toward the anchor point.
STEP 3. Secure the knot by tying a half hitch around the standing portion with the bight.

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Water Knot

WATER KNOT

The water knot is used to attach two webbing ends. It is also called a ring bend, overhand retrace, or tape knot. It is used in runners and harnesses and is a joining knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Tie an overhand knot in one of the ends.
STEP 2. Feed the other end back through the knot, following the path of the first rope in reverse.
STEP 3. Draw tight and pull all of the slack out of the knot. The remaining tails must extend at least 4 inches beyond the knot in both directions.

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Wireman's Knot

WIREMAN’S KNOT

The wireman’s knot forms a single, fixed loop in the middle of the rope. It is a middle rope knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. When tying this knot, face the anchor that the tie-off system will be tied to. Take up the slack from the anchor, and wrap two turns around the left hand (palm up) from left to right.
STEP 2. A loop of 30 centimeters is taken up in the second round turn to create the fixed loop of the knot.
STEP 3. Name the wraps from the palm to the fingertips: heel, palm, and fingertip.
STEP 4. Secure the palm wrap with the right thumb and forefinger, and place it over the heel wrap.
STEP 5. Secure the heel wrap and place it over the fingertip wrap.
STEP 6. Secure the fingertip wrap and place it over the palm wrap.
STEP 7. Secure the palm wrap and pull up to form a fixed loop.
STEP 8. Dress the knot down by pulling on the fixed loop and the two working ends.
STEP 9. Pull the working ends apart to finish the knot.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!

Charlie

Knot Tying- Part 7

Munter Hitch

MUNTER HITCH

The munter hitch, when used in conjunction with a pear-shaped locking carabiner, is used to form a mechanical belay.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Hold the rope in both hands, palms down about 12 inches apart.
STEP 2. With the right hand, form a loop away from the body toward the left hand. Hold the loop with the left hand.
STEP 3. With the right hand, place the rope that comes from the bottom of the loop over the top of the loop.
STEP 4. Place the bight that has just been formed around the rope into the pear shaped carabiner. Lock the locking mechanism.

b. Check Points.

(1) A bight passes through the carabiner, with the closed end around the standing or running part of the rope.
(2) The carabiner is locked.

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RAPPEL SEAT

The rappel seat is an improvised seat rappel harness made of rope. It usually requires a sling rope 14 feet or longer.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Find the middle of the sling rope and make a bight.
STEP 2. Decide which hand will be used as the brake hand and place the bight on the opposite hip.
STEP 3. Reach around behind and grab a single strand of rope. Bring it around the waist to the front and tie two overhands on the other strand of rope, thus creating a loop around the waist.
STEP 4. Pass the two ends between the legs, ensuring they do not cross.
STEP 5. Pass the two ends up under the loop around the waist, bisecting the pocket flaps on the trousers. Pull up on the ropes, tightening the seat.
STEP 6. From rear to front, pass the two ends through the leg loops creating a half hitch on both hips.
STEP 7. Bring the longer of the two ends across the front to the nonbrake hand hip and secure the two ends with a square knot safetied with overhand knots. Tuck any excess rope in the pocket below the square knot.

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Square Knot

SQUARE KNOT

The square knot is used to tie the ends of two ropes of equal diameter. It is a joining knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Holding one working end in each hand, place the working end in the right hand over the one in the left hand.
STEP 2. Pull it under and back over the top of the rope in the left hand.
STEP 3. Place the working end in the left hand over the one in the right hand and repeat STEP 2.
STEP 4. Dress the knot down and secure it with an overhand knot on each side of the square knot.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!
 
Charlie

Knot Tying- Part 6

Girth Hitch

GIRTH HITCH

The girth hitch is used to attach a runner to an anchor or piece of equipment. It is a special-purpose knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1: Form a bight.
STEP 2: Bring the runner back through the bight.
STEP 3: Cinch the knot tightly.

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Guarde Knot

GUARDE KNOT

The guarde knot (ratchet knot, alpine clutch) is a special purpose knot primarily used for hauling systems or rescue. The knot works in only one direction and cannot be reversed while under load.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Place a bight of rope into the two anchored carabiners (works best with two like carabiners, preferably ovals).
STEP 2. Take a loop of rope from the non-load side and place it down into the opposite cararabiner so that the rope comes out between the two carabiners.

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Kleimhiest Knot

KLEIMHIEST KNOT

The Kleimhiest knot provides a moveable, easily adjustable, high-tension knot capable of holding extremely heavy loads while being pulled tight. It is a special-purpose knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Using a utility rope or webbing offset the ends by 12 inches. With the ends offset, find the center of the rope and form a bight. Lay the bight over a horizontal rope.
STEP 2. Wrap the tails of the utility rope around the horizontal rope back toward the direction of pull. Wrap at least four complete turns.
STEP 3. With the remaining tails of the utility rope, pass them through the bight (see STEP 1).
STEP 4. Join the two ends of the tail with a joining knot.
STEP 5. Dress the knot down tightly so that all wraps are touching.

Note: Spectra should not be used for the Kleimhiest knot. It has a low melting point and tends to slip.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!
Charlie

Knot Tying- Part 5

End-of-the-Rope Prusik

End-of-the-Rope PRUSIK 

STEP 1. Using an arm’s length of rope, and place it over the long rope.
STEP 2. Form a complete round turn in the rope.
STEP 3. Cross over the standing part of the short rope with the working end of the short rope.
STEP 4. Lay the working end under the long rope.
STEP 5. Form a complete round turn in the rope, working back toward the middle of the knot.
STEP 6. There are four wraps and a locking bar running across them on the long rope. Dress the wraps and locking bar down. Ensure they are tight, parallel, and not twisted.
STEP 7. Finish the knot with a bowline to ensure that the Prusik knot will not slip out during periods of varying tension.

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Middle-of-the-Rope Prusik

Middle-of-the-Rope PRUSIK

The middle-of-the-rope Prusik knot can be tied with a short rope to a long rope as follows:

STEP 1. Double the short rope, forming a bight, with the working ends even. Lay it over the long rope so that the closed end of the bight is 12 inches below the long rope and the remaining part of the rope (working ends) is the closest to the climber; spread the working end apart.
STEP 2. Reach down through the 12-inch bight. Pull up both of the working ends and lay them over the long rope. Repeat this process making sure that the working ends pass in the middle of the first two wraps. Now there are four wraps and a locking bar working across them on the long rope.
STEP 3. Dress the wraps and locking bar down to ensure they are tight and not twisted. Tying an overhand knot with both ropes will prevent the knot from slipping during periods of variable tension.

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Fisherman's Knot

FISHERMAN’S KNOT

The fisherman’s knot is used to tie two ropes of the same or approximately the same diameter. It is a joining knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Tie an overhand knot in one end of the rope.
STEP 2. Pass the working end of the other rope through the first overhand knot. Tie an overhand knot around the standing part of the first rope with the working end of the second rope.
STEP 3. Tightly dress down each overhand knot and tightly draw the knots together.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!

Charlie

Knot Tying- Part 4

Figure-Eight Loop

FIGURE-EIGHT LOOP (FIGURE-EIGHT-ON-A-BIGHT)

The figure-eight loop, also called the figure-eight-on-a-bight, is used to form a fixed loop in a rope. It is a middle of the rope knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Form a bight in the rope about as large as the diameter of the desired loop.
STEP 2. With the bight as the working end, form a loop in rope (standing part).
STEP 3. Wrap the working end around the standing part 360 degrees and feed the working end through the loop. Dress the knot tightly.

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Figure-Eight Retrace

FIGURE-EIGHT RETRACE (REROUTED FIGURE-EIGHT)

The figure-eight retrace knot produces the same result as a figure-eight loop. However, by tying the knot in a retrace, it can be used to fasten the rope to trees or to places where the loop cannot be used. It is also called a rerouted figure-eight and is an anchor knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Use a length of rope long enough to go around the anchor, leaving enough rope to work with.
STEP 2. Tie a figure-eight knot in the standing part of the rope, leaving enough rope to go around the anchor. To tie a figure-eight knot form a loop in the rope, wrap the working end around the standing part, and route the working end through the loop. The finished knot is dressed loosely.
STEP 3. Take the working end around the anchor point.
STEP 4. With the working end, insert the rope back through the loop of the knot in reverse.
STEP 5. Keep the original figure eight as the outside rope and retrace the knot around the wrap and back to the long-standing part.
STEP 6. Remove all unnecessary twists and crossovers; dress the knot down.
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Figure-Eight Slip Knot

FIGURE-EIGHT SLIP KNOT

The figure eight slip knot forms an adjustable bight in a rope. It is a specialty knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Form a 12-inch bight in the end of the rope.
STEP 2. Hold the center of the bight in the right hand. Hold the two parallel ropes from the bight in the left hand about 12 inches up the rope.
STEP 3. With the center of the bight in the right hand, twist two complete turns clockwise.
STEP 4. Reach through the bight and grasp the long, standing end of the rope. Pull another bight (from the long standing end) back through the original bight.
STEP 5. Pull down on the short working end of the rope and dress the knot down.
STEP 6. If the knot is to be used in a transport tightening system, take the working end of the rope and form a half hitch around the loop of the figure eight knot.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!

Charlie

Knot Tying- Part 3

Directional Figure-Eight

DIRECTIONAL FIGURE-EIGHT

The directional figure-eight knot forms a single, fixed loop in the middle of the rope that lays back along the standing part of the rope. It is a middle rope knot.
a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. Face the far side anchor so that when the knot is tied, it lays inward.
STEP 2. Lay the rope from the far side anchor over the left palm. Make one wrap around the palm.
STEP 3. With the wrap thus formed, tie a figure-eight knot around the standing part that leads to the far side anchor.
STEP 4. When dressing the knot down, the tail and the bight must be together.
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Double Fisherman's Knot

DOUBLE FISHERMAN’S KNOT
The double fisherman’s knot (also called double English or grapevine) is used to tie two ropes of the same or approximately the same diameter. It is a joining knot.
a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. With the working end of one rope, tie two wraps around the standing part of another rope.
STEP 2. Insert the working end (STEP 1) back through the two wraps and draw it tight.
STEP 3. With the working end of the other rope, which contains the standing part (STEPS 1 and 2), tie two wraps around the standing part of the other rope (the working end in STEP 1). Insert the working end back through the two wraps and draw tight.
STEP 4. Pull on the opposing ends to bring the two knots together.

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FIGURE-EIGHT BEND
The figure-eight bend is used to join the ends of two ropes of equal or unequal diameter within 5-mm difference.
a. Tying the Knot.
STEP 1. Grasp the top of a 2-foot bight.
STEP 2. With the other hand, grasp the running end (short end) and make a 360-degree turn around the standing end.
STEP 3. Place the running end through the loop just formed creating an in-line figure eight.
STEP 4. Route the running end of the other ripe back through the figure eight starting from the original rope’s running end. Trace the original knot to the standing end.
STEP 5. Remove all unnecessary twists and crossovers. Dress the knot down.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!

Charlie

Knot Tying- Part 2

BOWLINE-ON-A-BIGHT (TWO-LOOP BOWLINE)

The bowline-on-a-bight is used to form two fixed loops in the middle of a rope. It is a middle rope knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Form a bight in the rope about twice as long as the finished loops will be.
STEP 2. Tie an overhand knot on a bight.
STEP 3. Hold the overhand knot in the left hand so that the bight is running down and outward.
STEP 4. Grasp the bight with the right hand; fold it back over the overhand knot so that the overhand knot goes through the bight.
STEP 5. From the end (apex) of the bight, follow the bight back to where it forms the cross in the overhand knot. Grasp the two ropes that run down and outward and pull up, forming two loops.
STEP 6. Pull the two ropes out of the overhand knot and dress the knot down.
STEP 7. A final dress is required: grasp the ends of the two fixed loops and pull, spreading them apart to ensure the loops do not slip.

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BOWLINE


The bowline is used to tie the end of a rope around an anchor. It may also be used to tie a single fixed loop in the end of a rope. It is an anchor knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Bring the working end of the rope around the anchor, from right to left (as the climber faces the anchor).
STEP 2. Form an overhand loop in the standing part of the rope (on the climber’s right) toward the anchor.
STEP 3. Reach through the loop and pull up a bight.
STEP 4. Place the working end of the rope (on the climber’s left) through the bight, and bring it back onto itself. Now dress the knot down.
STEP 5. Form an overhand knot with the tail from the bight.

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ROUND TURN AND TWO HALF HITCHES

This knot is used to tie the end of a rope to an anchor, and it must have constant tension. It is an anchor knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Route the rope around the anchor from right to left and wrap down (must have two wraps in the rear of the anchor, and one in the front). Run the loop around the object to provide 360-degree contact, distributing the load over the anchor.
STEP 2. Bring the working end of the rope left to right and over the standing part, forming a half hitch (first half hitch).
STEP 3. Repeat STEP 2 (last half hitch has a 4 inch pigtail).
STEP 4. Dress the knot down.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!

Charlie

Knot Tying- Part 1

Clove Hitch

CLOVE HITCH

The clove hitch is an anchor knot that can be used in the middle of the rope as well as at the end. The knot must have constant tension on it once tied to prevent slipping. It can be used as either an anchor or middle of the rope knot, depending on how it is tied.

a. Tying the Knot.

(1) Middle of the Rope.

STEP 1. Hold rope in both hands, palms down with hands together. Slide the left hand to the left from 20 to 25 centimeters.
STEP 2. Form a loop away from and back toward the right.
STEP 3. Slide the right hand from 20 to 25 centimeters to the right. Form a loop inward and back to the left hand.
STEP 4. Place the left loop on top of the right loop. Place both loops over the anchor and pull both ends of the rope in opposite directions. The knot is tied.

(2) End of the Rope.

Note: For instructional purposes, assume that the anchor is horizontal.

STEP 1. Place 76 centimeters of rope over the top of the anchor. Hold the standing end in the left hand. With the right hand, reach under the horizontal anchor, grasp the working end, and bring it inward.
STEP 2. Place the working end of the rope over the standing end (to form a loop). Hold the loop in the left hand. Place the working end over the anchor from 20 to 25 centimeters to the left of the loop.
STEP 3. With the right hand, reach down to the left hand side of the loop under the anchor. Grasp the working end of the rope. Bring the working end up and outward.
STEP 4. Dress down the knot.

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Two-Loop Figure-Eight

TWO-LOOP FIGURE-EIGHT

The two-loop figure-eight is used to form two fixed loops in the middle of a rope. It is a middle rope knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Using a doubled rope, form an 18-inch bight in the left hand with the running end facing to the left.
STEP 2. Grasp the bight with the right hand and make a 360-degree turn around the standing end in a counterclockwise direction.
STEP 3. With the working end, form another bight and place that bight through the loop just formed in the left hand.
STEP 4. Hold the bight with the left hand, and place the original bight (moving toward the left hand) over the knot.
STEP 5. Dress the knot down.
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Bachman Knot

BACHMAN KNOT

The Bachman knot provides a means of using a makeshift mechanized ascender. It is a specialty knot.

a. Tying the Knot.

STEP 1. Find the middle of a utility rope and insert it into a carabiner.
STEP 2. Place the carabiner and utility rope next to a long climbing rope.
STEP 3. With the two ropes parallel from the carabiner, make two or more wraps around the climbing rope and through the inside portion of the carabiner.

Note: The rope can be tied into an etrier (stirrup) and used as a Prusik-friction principle ascender.

b. Checkpoints.

(1) The bight of the climbing rope is at the top of the carabiner.
(2) The two ropes run parallel without twisting or crossing.
(3) Two or more wraps are made around the long climbing rope and through the inside portion of the carabiner.

Stay Prepared! Stay Alive!

Charlie